Review Digital Camera World 11-19-2013

Digital Camera World

Ready to move beyond the basics? Enroll in this advanced DSLR course to explore more creative scenarios, image editing, and videography. From our sponsors

Nikon Df vs Sony A7R: which full-frame camera should you buy? Nov 19th 2013, 00:01, by jmeyer Released within weeks of each other, the Nikon Df and Sony A7R offer their own unique selling points for photographers. But which full-frame camera is the better buy? Marcus Hawkins sheds some light in our Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison. The Nikon Df, Nikon’s new full-frame FX-format camera, occupies a unique position in the current Nikon DSLR line-up. Designed as a ‘fusion’ camera, the Df blends vintage styling inspired by Nikon’s classic F-series of film cameras, with an imaging sensor taken from the flagship Nikon D4. A camera that combines classic design with high-end features doesn’t come cheap though. Despite being the smallest and lightest Nikon FX-format full-frame camera, the Nikon Df commands a high price. Launching at £2749.99, the Df is almost £800 more expensive than the D800′s current street price – although you do get a new 50mm lens with the Df. The Nikon Df also faces some stiff competition in the shape of the Sony A7R. Sony’s new full-frame compact system camera is smaller and lighter (and a bit cheaper) than the Nikon Df, but has a full-frame sensor that offers the same 36.4MP resolution as the Nikon D800E. See our Sony A7R vs Nikon D800 comparison On paper, it seems that the Sony A7R is the runaway winner. But both the Nikon Df and the A7R are aimed at different types of photographer and they deliver very different picture-taking experiences. Which one should you buy – or, in all likelihood, dream of buying? Our Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison should help you choose between the two retro-styled cameras… SEE MORE: Nikon D5300 vs D5100 vs D5200: 13 key differences you need to know about Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison: Price Let’s run over that price again. The Nikon Df price tag stands at £2750 with the 50mm kit lens. The Sony A7R price tag is £1700 for the camera body only. While neither camera is cheap, the Sony A7R seems like the ‘bargain’ at first glance. However, once you add a Sony FE 55mm f/1.8 ZA Carl Zeiss lens to the A7R lens, the difference in price between the two small full frame cameras becomes minimal. There’s no getting away from the fact that the Nikon Df represents a significant outlay though. So what does that premium buy you? On the surface, at least, lots of dials. ISO, shutter speed and exposure compensation are set independently via their own dedicated mechanical dials on the Nikon Df’s top plate. Each of these carved and knurled dials has indicators that have been engraved and painted to give that reassuringly expensive feel. While it lacks the details and design finesse, the Sony A7R is still a full-featured, well-built compact system camera. It packs a serious amount of technology into its small body, including Wi-Fi and Near Field Communication (NFC) for easy sharing and remote control with compatible smartphones. If maximum resolution is what you need, the Sony A7R is also the better investment. We must mention the Nikon Df’s kit lens, too: an AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G SE (Special Edition) based on the regular AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G. The new lens features an aspherical element, designed to reduce reflections and improve clarity. It also gets a makeover on the outside, complete with ‘leather-like texture’ a silver aluminium ring and a knurled focus ring. Fancy. PAGE 1 – Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison: Price PAGE 2 – Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison: Sensor resolution PAGE 3 – Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison: Design and build quality PAGE 4 – Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison: Viewfinder and LCD screen PAGE 5 – Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison: Autofocus PAGE 6 – Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison: Metering and Processing PAGE 7 – Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison: Lenses PAGE 8 – Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison: Video PAGE 9 – Nikon Df vs Sony A7R comparison: our conclusion READ MORE Banish bad pictures: 9 quick fixes for common camera complaints 44 essential digital camera tips and tricks 10 ways to drive a photography snob mad 10 common exposure problems every photographer faces (and how to overcome them) 100 Nikon DSLR tips you need to know right now Beginner photography tips: common problems with composition and framing Nov 18th 2013, 11:22, by jmeyer In the final part of our Shoot Like A Pro series looking at some of the most common problems that plague new photographers we turn our attention to composition and framing. Unlike the more technical aspects of photography such as exposure or focusing, choosing how to compose and frame your shots is as much about personal choice as being right or wrong. Despite this, there are ways to improve the composition of your images. The classic habits to break are putting the main subject in the centre of the frame, and not getting close enough to the subject. Simple tips for composing a photograph Below we’ll show you a couple images that don’t quite work for a number of reasons, and then slightly different versions of each that do. Find out below why this image doesn’t quite work Including subjects at the edge of the image You need to watch out for areas of the subject, especially at the edge of the frame, which draw attention away from the main subject. Before you press the shutter, try looking all around the frame for anything that doesn't help the composition. Uninteresting foreground Shooting with a wide-angle lens means that you will often include a large area of the foreground. So you should look out for interesting subjects or textures to make the most of this area of the image. SEE MORE: Composing pictures with foreground interest: simple ways to draw in the eye Horizon in the middle of the frame Placing the horizon in the middle of the image is generally not recommended. It produces two equal-sized areas and makes the whole image appear static. Positioning the horizon around a third from the top or bottom of the frame produces a better composition. Horizon isn't straight If the horizon is clearly visible in the scene it should generally be horizontal. Getting the horizon precisely level using the viewfinder can be tricky. Many cameras offer a grid display in Live View mode or an electronic spirit level option to help you. Using some simple composition rules such as placing the main elements off-centre produces a much stronger image SEE MORE: The 10 Rules of Photo Composition (and why they work) Find out below why this image doesn’t quite work Subject too small in the frame Unless the area around the subject adds something to the image – such as showing the environment or landscape around it – you'll get a stronger image by filling the frame with the main subject. Image too cluttered While a strong subject can help to produce striking images, if there are too many subjects or points of interest in your image, they can actually detract from the impact of the shot. So try including less of the background, or blurring it by using shallow depth-of-field. Subject in the middle of the frame Similar to placing the horizon in the centre, positioning the main subject in the middle of the image creates a very static, uninteresting composition. It's usually better to shift the position to one side if shooting horizontally, or up or down on vertical images. Getting closer to the subject, or using a longer lens, produces a much simpler, more striking image READ MORE How to compose a photograph: start seeing images where you never saw them before Rule of Thirds: use it and break it with confidence Leading lines: photography’s most underrated composition device How to get composition right every time you shoot

You are receiving this email because you subscribed to this feed at blogtrottr.com. If you no longer wish to receive these emails, you can unsubscribe from this feed, or manage all your subscriptions