Tuesday 27 August 2013

Review Digital Camera World 08-28-2013

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Autofocus vs manual: how to take control of focus in problem foregrounds
Aug 27th 2013, 23:01, by jmeyer

Your camera is like a faithful and efficient assistant, but it’s not the brains of the outfit. Some scenes can fool your camera into thinking that something else is the more important subject. In these situations you might debate whether to use autofocus vs manual mode, but there’s no reason you can’t still use autofocus.

Your camera’s AF system usually gets it right, but you need to know when it won’t… and what you can do about it.

Autofocus vs manual: how to take control of AF and outsmart your camera

Like your camera’s other automated functions, its autofocus is designed to work out what to do so that you don't have to think about it. Most of the time it makes the right decisions and produces perfectly sharp pictures, but really it can only guess at your intentions.

If you're in a hurry, and have no time to make manual adjustments to your camera settings, autofocus is the perfect solution.

But it's important to know how it works and what it's going to do, so that you can take charge of focusing in situations where the camera might make the wrong guess.

Taking control doesn't mean you have to focus manually; Most autofocus systems are both faster and more accurate than trying to focus by eye. The trick is to set the camera up so that it does what you want in the way you expect.

The range of autofocus modes and options can look daunting, but they are quite simple when you break them down. In fact, there are just two things you need to know.

First, you need to know when the camera is going to focus. In continuous AF mode it keeps focusing all the time you keep the shutter button half-pressed.

That's fine for action sequences, but unpredictable for regular photography – for this, you need the single-shot AF mode.

Second, you need to know what it's going to focus on. In auto-area AF mode, the camera decides on your behalf. It's quick and simple, but sometimes wrong. Single-point AF mode is simpler and cruder but it's the one most experts prefer because you can make the camera focus exactly where you want.

Different DSLRs use different autofocus systems, and some look fearsomely complex, like the pro-spec 51-point system in the Nikon D300s we're using for our outdoor photo shoot.

But the same principles apply, and in a matter of moments you can tame even this super-complex system to work simply and clearly.

Autofocus vs manual: why not focus manually?

Autofocus vs manual: why not focus manually?

Could you save yourself time and trouble by focusing shots like this manually? Yes and no!

The problem is that your DSLR's optical viewfinder is not large enough or crisp enough for the pinpoint focusing that high-resolution digital sensors need if they are to deliver their full potential.

But there is a quick, simple solution: use your autofocus system to set the distance, then push the autofocus switch on the lens barrel to the M position.

The focus distance will now stay locked until you change it.

PAGE 1: Autofocus vs manual: why not focus manually?
PAGE 2: How to take control of autofocus
PAGE 3: Taking control of AF video tutorial
PAGE 4: Spot metering and AF

READ MORE

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Manual focus: what you need to know to get sharp images
Best camera focus techniques: 10 surefire ways to get sharp photos
Famous Photographers: 100 things we wish we knew starting out

Backlit portraits: how to give your subjects a golden halo effect
Aug 27th 2013, 11:01, by jmeyer

In our latest outdoor portrait photography tutorial we show you how to use clever framing of the sun give your people pictures a golden halo effect. Read on to find out how to make your own atmospheric backlit portraits!

Backlit portraits: how to give your subjects a golden halo effect

Using the sun to backlight shots of people is a brilliantly effective way to add a summery, sunkissed feel to portraits, and is especially popular in fashion and wedding photography.

In this tutorial we'll show you how to get the look by positioning the sun behind your model and creating a warm halo of light around them. To get the best results in this trickly lighting situation it pays to switch White Balance, focus and exposure to manual.

We shot our model, Athene, on a July evening, and waited until 8pm for the sun to be at the right height to frame her face. Anyone with blonde hair is perfect for this, as the sun will shine through and light up fair hair. Here are our suggestions for getting a perfect contre jour effect…

How to frame backlit portraits

How to frame backlit portraits: step 1

01 Switch to manual
Manual avoids your camera overcompensating for the light and silhouetting your model. A wide aperture, such as f/5.6, creates shallow depth of field, and ISO100 is fine. Experiment with shutter speed – we found overexposing two stops with a setting of 1/125 sec gave just enough definition.

 

How to frame backlit portraits: step 2

02 Get in focus
Shooting into the sun means autofocus will struggle. One trick is to shield your lens from the sun with your hand, focus on your subject's face, then take your hand away and shoot, but it's less hassle to focus manually. Remember, do not look through your viewfinder directly at the sun.

 

How to frame backlit portraits: step 3

03 Find the right angle
To avoid blowing out your photo, and to keep your subject's features defined, you'll need most of the sun behind your model's head. Experiment with positioning and camera settings until you find an effect you like – and don't worry about lens flare as it can create an attractive look.

READ MORE

Professional Photographer to the Rescue: outdoor portraits that look like real life
Break the rules: become a pro at using backlight to add drama to any photo
14 portrait photography tips you’ll never want to forget
How to bunce light and lift shadows from your subject’s face
10 portrait photography mistakes every photographer makes

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