Monday, 4 November 2013

Review Digital Camera World 11-04-2013

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Beginner photography tips: common mistakes with exposure and colour
Nov 4th 2013, 00:01, by jmeyer

In our latest Shoot Like A Pro series we take an in-depth look at some of the most common problems that plague new photographers and explain some simple methods and jargon-free beginner photography tips for avoiding them. This week we turn our attention to exposure and colour, and investigate some of the reasons why your pictures might not look the way you want them to.

Beginner photography tips: common mistakes with exposure and colour

Although you can correct a lot of exposure errors in Photoshop, particularly using raw format files, it's still better to get the results right in-camera as much as possible. Even when converting raw images, there is a limit to how much highlight detail you can recover if you over-expose your images.

While it's often possible to boost the detail in the shadows of an under-exposed shot, the result will be noisier and lower quality than if you correctly exposed it in the first place.

Below we’ve rounded up some of the most common problems photographers have with exposure and provided some quick solutions.

Beginner photography tips for correcting problems with exposure and colour

Image is under-exposed, giving a result that is too dark, with no bright highlights
This is most likely to occur when the subject you are shooting is mostly light or bright, as the camera will try to set the exposure to record it as grey. You can check for under-exposure by looking at the histogram when you review your images.

If the graph is bunched to the left, with a gap to the right, then it is under-exposed. You can correct this easily by using exposure compensation to increase the exposure.

For a subject that contains a large amount of white or bright areas, you should try setting the exposure compensation to +1, and taking another shot to allow you to check the histogram again.

Image is over-exposed, producing a result that is too light, with no dark shadows
If you are shooting a scene that contains a large amount of dark tones, the camera will over-expose the shot, producing a light image.

The histogram will be bunched to the right, with a gap to the left. To correct this, you simply need to set the exposure compensation to reduce the exposure,  such as -1.

Incorrect shutter speed or aperture settings when using Manual Exposure mode
Using Manual Exposure gives you complete control over the shutter speed and aperture that you set, but this doesn't mean that you can simply choose any values and get a correctly exposed image.

The main thing to remember is that once you have selected a shutter speed, aperture and ISO to give the correct exposure, if you then adjust any one of these settings, you will need to change at least one of the other settings to maintain the correct exposure.

So, once you have set the exposure correctly, if you want set a faster shutter speed, you will need to use either a wider aperture or higher ISO setting to keep the same exposure.

Beginner photography tips: use exposure compensation

Sky is too bright and the foreground is correctly exposed, or foreground too dark and sky over-exposed
This is a common problem in landscape photography, as the difference in brightness between the sky and the ground is too large for the camera to record detail in both areas.

To correct this in-camera, you can use neutral density grad filters, which reduce the brightness of the sky to allow you to capture detail in this and the foreground.

If you don't have these filters you can take two shots, one for the sky and one for the foreground, and combine them in Photoshop.

Beginner photography tips: fix white balance errors

The colours of the image don't appear correct, as they are either too warm or too cold
This problem is caused by using the wrong white balance setting, especially if the camera is set to automatic white balance.

Like any automatic feature, the automatic white balance won't give perfect colours in every situation. This is most common when the subject is dominated by one or two colours, which will fool the system into shifting the colour temperature to compensate for this.

A classic case is when shooting the warm, orange colours at sunrise or sunset. The automatic white balance will often produce muted colours, so use one of the preset white balance options, such as Sunny or Daylight, when shooting in these conditions.

Beginner photography tips: use flash exposure compensation

Subjects are over-exposed when using flash, particularly when they are close to the camera
Reduce the brightness of the flash by using the flash exposure compensation (FEC). This is usually accessed by pressing and holding the flash button and using the input dial, or pressing the FEC button marked with a flash symbol and +/-. To reduce the flash exposure, set this to -1.

Download our free cheat sheet for controlling exposure when shooting moving water

Download our free cheat sheet for controlling exposure when shooting moving water

Click on the infographic to see the larger version, or drag and drop to your desktop.

READ MORE

10 common exposure problems every photographer faces (and how to overcome them)
Color Theory: the best color combinations for photography (and how to take it further)
Histogram: photography cheat sheets for achieving perfect exposures
Color photography explained: simple tips for making your brightest ever images

A layman's guide to wireless flash triggers
Nov 3rd 2013, 14:00, by jmeyer

What is a wireless flash trigger good for? There are lots of things to think about when using off-camera flash, but using a wireless flash trigger can make the process much simpler. In our latest Layman’s Guide we answer all the common questions beginner photographers have about wireless flash triggers.

A layman's guide to wireless flash triggers

What are wireless flash triggers?

These kits typically contain a wireless RF (radio frequency) transmitter and a separate receiver. This enables a flashgun to be triggered remotely, when it's not mounted in the camera's hotshoe.

How do wireless flash triggers work?

In basic operation, most wireless trigger kits work over a range of at least 10m, but the maximum range can be 100m or more. The transmitter mounts into the camera's hotshoe; the flashgun mounts to the receiver via its own, separate hotshoe.

In some cases, transceivers are used instead of transmitters and receivers. This gives the added bonus of remote firing of the camera, although an additional cable may be required, which runs from the hotshoe-mounted transceiver on the camera to its remote control socket.

Who makes wireless flash triggers?

Popular makes and models include the Hähnel Combi TF, Interfit Strobies, Phottix Strato, PocketWizard, SMDV Flash Wave III and the Yongnuo RF-603N, with prices ranging from £30 to £300.

Although many are tailored for specific makes of camera, most don't enable TTL flash metering. Exceptions are various models of PocketWizard, and the new Hähnel Tuff TTL (pictured here) which costs about £100 and is available in Canon or Nikon options.

What is a wireless flash trigger?

When should I use wireless flash triggers?

They're ideal any time you want to use the flashgun off-camera. For example, holding the flashgun high up and to one side in portraiture gives a much more natural and flattering lighting effect. Many current SLRs enable remote triggering for flashguns by using the built-in pop-up flash as a master controller.

However, this requires a small amount of light from the pop-up flash to be present in images, which may be undesirable. Operating range is also comparatively limited when using the pop-up flash as a master.

READ MORE

8 flash photography mistakes every photographer makes (and how to avoid them)
Flash photography made easy: master everything from pop-up flash to multiple flashguns
7 cheap photo accessories you really need to own
15 non-photography gadgets every photographer needs

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