Saturday, 9 November 2013

Review Digital Camera World 11-09-2013

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Landscape photography: How much money can you actually make?
Nov 9th 2013, 00:01, by jmeyer

With stock photography plummeting in value and every hobbyist owning a full frame camera, is it still possible to earn a living photographing landscapes? Here the photo management and Canon Project1709 experts at Photoventure have spoken to four professional landscape photographers to find out if their career path is still worth pursuing.

Landscape photography: How much money can you make?

Colin Prior is considered to be one of the world’s leading landscape photographers. He was the first to become known for shooting 6×17 panoramas, and publishes his own calendars.

Colin, where is the money in landscape photography these days?

It’s very difficult to make money from landscape photography, full stop. I’ve behaved as a publisher for the last 15 years and I’ve never really made my living as a landscape photographer, more as a publisher who published my own work. There will always be a demand for paper products, people will always buy books and calendars, but the demand is probably falling.

In terms of stock I think we’ve reached a point where it’s largely worthless. People are expecting not to pay for photographs, and if they do pay they don’t expect to have to sign a licensing agreement for a limited time. Magazine editors increasingly tell me they don’t have a budget for photographs. So, if photographers can’t make money from images, what can they do?

What do you think you’ve done right?

There’s no doubt that if I hadn’t published my own work I wouldn’t have had so much visibility, but when I started out  in 1995 the economy was buoyant, there were lots of independent retailers and art shops, which have largely gone.

Any photographer can print their own work these days but not of as good a quality as the lithographic prints I’ve been doing, which is probably why they’ve been such a hit. But that model is no longer valid because the independent retailers have gone and images are now an online product.

Another reason I can’t recommend becoming a publisher anymore is that you have to deal with high street buyers, now that the independent shops have gone. Professional buyers insist on certain margins and you have to supply your goods in a way that suits them; they might give you a limited delivery slot of about an hour, and unless you have your own distribution, it’s impossible.

But selling calendars to other publishers just doesn’t pay enough for you to live off it – the margins aren’t there, it’s something a lot of people are doing alongside a full time job. The reason I’m still able to sell prints is that I’m a brand, and people trust that if they buy a print from me it’s going to be good quality.

So what would you advise aspiring landscape photographers to do?

The only way a photographer can make a name for themselves is by being extraordinary, otherwise there won’t be any publishers willing to risk investing in their body of work. I would advise young landscape photographers to do something else for a living. It’s sad, but anyone who tells you anything different isn’t looking at the marketplace properly.

www.colinprior.co.uk

SEE MORE: 13 ways famous landscape photographers make money from photography

Paul Sanders was Picture Editor of The Times until he went freelance and started focusing on landscapes two years ago. He sells prints and offers workshops for children and adults.

Paul, where is the cash in landscape photography?

I find now that I’m selling more pictures for people’s walls than I did before, but that’s because I’ve adapted my style to suit that market. The classical views don’t always work for people’s walls, you need work that is more expressive these days.

There is good money in that, you can sell a print for between £400 and £1000, but any other kind of publishing has devalued. The only reason to sell images to magazines these days is to get the exposure, they can’t pay anything near what your work is worth.

Every landscape photographer I know has to do something else, whether it’s landscapes, or books, or teaching, or diversifying into something related to the environment. There is money in workshops but the problem is that you’re effectively training other people doing the same thing as you, and then you sometimes see the people you’ve trained starting their own workshops taking people to the exact same locations.

What would you advise aspiring photographers to do?

I would keep landscape photography as a hobby and concentrate on general stock photography. Shoot a lot every day, take pictures of household appliances, car keys, coffee mugs, wellies, because people will use it and you’ll get a little bit of money very often.

And sometimes you get contacted for something more; I’ve just been contacted by a company that wanted to buy the world rights to an image I’d taken of northern lights to use with some computer software.

Websites now want cheap photography. When I worked at The Times three years ago there was a guy who came to me and wanted to be a newspaper photographer, and I advised him to shoot stock instead. He contacted me recently and said he was now earning as much as I earned when I was picture editor of The Times, and thanked me a lot for telling him to go down that route.

www.paulsanders.biz

PAGE 1: Colin Prior & Paul Sanders
PAGE 2: Tom Mackie & Dave Butcher

READ MORE

10 quick landscape photography tips
How to make money from photography
How to get your photos published in magazines
Full-frame sensor size explained: how to exploit its advantages and cool effects

Pictures of bridges: 10 tips for better bridge photography
Nov 8th 2013, 12:02, by jmeyer

Bridge photography is a favourite subject for travel and landscape photographers alike, but getting quality pictures of bridges isn’t as easy as one might think. Your main subject is static but there are a whole host of other elements to think about. Below we’ve offered 10 bridge photography tips direct from the experts to help you bag better pictures of bridges.

Pictures of bridges: 10 tips for better bridge photography

Image by Jeff Morgan / PhotoPlus

Get Better Pictures of Bridges: 01 Shoot in Raw
For maximum control when it comes to processing your images, always shoot in Raw. You'll often be shooting high-contrast scenes, with dark bridges backlit by bright skies, and Raw files enable you to extract the maximum amount of shadow and highlight detail at the editing stage. You can fine-tune the white balance post-shoot too.

SEE MORE: Raw Images – 10 tips every beginner must know before ditching JPEG

Get Better Pictures of Bridges: 02 Use a sturdy tripod
For bridge and landscape shots you'll often be recording a long exposure, so to capture sharp shots your camera needs to be perfectly stable. Use a sturdy tripod, and keep it as low to the ground as possible; if you need to raise it up, extend the legs rather than the centre column, as this will be more secure. On windy days you may need to find a sheltered spot to shield your camera and tripod from gusts.

SEE MORE: 9 secrets to using a tripod like a professional

Get Better Pictures of Bridges: 03 Camera accessories
A remote release is essential for hands-off shooting to avoid blurry shots. Use this in conjunction with the Mirror Lock-up Custom function to ensure that there's no risk of camera shake. For more about remote controls, see this issue's Help Me Buy feature on page 102.

Get Better Pictures of Bridges: 04 Camera filters
To stop bright skies overexposing, use an ND grad filter to retain the detail and colour – but avoid positioning the filter over the bridge, otherwise it'll look unnaturally dark. A polariser will decrease reflections and increase colour saturation, especially after rain, and is great for deepening blue skies.

Or for that sought-after wispy effect in water use a straight ND filter. A variable ND filter with a range of densities from one to eight stops will give versatility. Or use a 10-stop ND filter for really long exposures of 30 seconds and more – in daylight!

Get Better Pictures of Bridges: 05 Focus and metering
If you're using filters, such as a 10-stop ND filter, make sure you compose, focus and meter the shot before you fit the filter. This is because the camera will struggle to focus if it's too dark.

If you do decide to meter with the filter fitted, it's best to cover the eyepiece completely so it doesn't affect the light reading. And remember to focus on the bridge – it may sound obvious, but that's what you want the viewer's eye to be drawn to.

Get Better Pictures of Bridges: 06 Use a wide-angle lens
Wide-angle lenses have a wide field of view that enables you to fit more into the frame, so they're ideal for photographing large subjects like bridges. They can also introduce perspective distortions that exaggerate lines and curves, which can add impact to imposing subjects (but you can correct them if they spoil a shot).

A common mistake when using a wide-angle lens is including too much bland sky or empty foreground – move around to find the best viewpoint and composition.

Get Better Pictures of Bridges: 07 Camera settings
Set your camera to Aperture Priority (Av) mode, and select a narrow aperture, ideally somewhere between f/11 and f/16 to ensure your images are sharp from front to back.

You should also set a low ISO, ideally ISO100, to ensure that skies and bodies of water are free of image noise. The camera will select an appropriate shutter speed, although you may need to dial-in some exposure compensation if the lighting is tricky.

Get Better Pictures of Bridges: 08 Use the golden hours
As with landscapes in general, the best times of day to shoot bridges are during the 'golden hours' around sunrise and sunset. The quality of the light during these times can change quickly and dramatically, so be sure to take plenty of shots.

These are also the best times to shoot long exposure pictures of bridges, as the light levels are lower. Bridges that are illuminated, or are framed by the lights of a city, also make great night photography subjects.

Get Better Pictures of Bridges: 09 Composition
A classic wide-angle bridge picture usually requires a foreground object to help create an interesting photo composition, and give the image depth. As most bridges are over water, one option is to capture the reflection of a bridge to fill the foreground, if the water is calm enough. You can also look for rocks, jetties, boats and so on.

Get Better Pictures of Bridges: 10 Colour vs mono
Images shot during the golden hours work well in both colour and mono. Colour is great for showing off a dramatic sunrise or sunset, while mono can add moodiness and atmosphere to shots. And if a bridge is backlit by a bright and colourful sky, try turning it into a dramatic silhouette.

READ MORE

Sky photography: how to take pictures of the sky that dramatically fill your frame
10 common landscape photography mistakes every photographer makes
Dull day photography: what (and how) to shoot when the sun isn’t shining
Autumn photography: 24 tips on how to take awesome pictures of Fall
The 55 best photographers of all time

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